At the very heart of Bac Ha Town in Là o Cai Province stands a striking yellow palace, blending ancient European and Asian architectural styles. This is Hoà ng A Tưởng Palace, famously known as the “Mansion of the Cat King.” Despite nearly a century of history, the mansion remains imposing and atmospheric, moss-clad and dignified, silently observing the bustling life of the streets around it.
A Journey into History
Construction of Hoà ng A Tưởng Palace began in 1914 and was completed seven years later. It was built as the grand residence of Hoà ng Yến Chao, a wealthy Tay ethnic lord who wielded immense influence over the Bac Ha region. Locals, predominantly the H’mong ethnic community, revered him as the “King of the Cat People” due to his power and leadership.
Before 1945, Bac Ha functioned as a semi-feudal colonial society. HoĂ ng Yáşżn Chao ruled a vast territory, exploiting his authority to live in luxury. Determined to establish a home in a location where yin and yang harmonized perfectly, he commissioned a geomancer to scour Bac Ha for the ideal site. They finally chose a tall, square plot embraced by mountains and streams, believed to bring prosperity and fortune.
Two architects—one French, one Chinese—combined Western and Eastern aesthetics to design the mansion, symbolizing wealth, harmony, and hope for a flourishing lineage. Hoà ng Yến Chao’s family lived there until 1950, after which they abandoned the estate. Though the interior furnishings were largely lost, the palace’s architecture remained intact. Recognized in 1999 as a national architectural and artistic relic, the mansion now welcomes visitors eager to step back in time.
Architectural Marvels
Walking through Hoà ng A Tưởng Palace is like stepping into a blend of cultures and eras. The mansion covers a vast 4,000 square meters and includes 36 rooms, arranged not just as a residence but also as a fortress, complete with defensive walls pierced with gun holes.
Key Architectural Highlights:
- European Influence:
- Laurel branch motifs symbolizing happiness and prosperity
- Arched balconies and balustrades
- Grand staircases and classical columns
- Eastern Elements:
- Harmonious layout respecting feng shui principles
- Decorative motifs and traditional ornamentation
The main two-story structure is flanked by auxiliary buildings on both sides. Guests ascend one of two grand staircases, arriving at a spacious waiting room that leads into a large central courtyard. The mansion’s domed entrance building includes rooms once used for family gatherings and important meetings.
Private Quarters and Living Spaces
- The horizontal wings on either side of the entrance house living spaces for the many wives of Hoà ng Yến Chao and Hoà ng A Tưởng, as well as quarters for their French and Chinese advisors.
- Behind the main residence stand two simpler two-story buildings, formerly used as storage and servants’ quarters.
Materials used in construction included local limestone, sand, molasses, beeswax, plus cement and steel imported from Hà Nội and Là o Cai—an impressive feat for early 20th-century Vietnam.
From Mansion to Museum
Today, Hoà ng A Tưởng Palace is managed as a tourist attraction by the Là o Cai Tourist Information Center. Part of the mansion hosts stalls selling local handicrafts like woven scarves, brocade skirts, silver jewelry, and even traditional smoking pipes. Another section has been transformed into a traditional corn wine kitchen, where visitors can watch demonstrations of Bac Ha’s famous corn vodka production—and, of course, sample the spirits for themselves!
When to Visit Hoà ng A Tưởng Palace
While you can visit Bac Ha and its iconic mansion year-round, the best time is spring. This season treats travelers to a breathtaking landscape of white plum blossoms blanketing the surrounding hills. Alternatively, visit in mid-year during the plum harvest or plan your trip around the Bac Ha Horse Racing Festival, held annually on the 7th day of the 7th lunar month. This lively festival offers a unique cultural experience, featuring thrilling races and vibrant local traditions.
Savor Bac Ha’s Local Delicacies
No visit to Bac Ha is complete without tasting the region’s unique cuisine. Local specialties include:
- Corn Cakes: Soft, slightly sweet treats perfect for snacking.
- Sour Pho: A tangy, refreshing noodle dish.
- Green Rice (Cốm): Fragrant young rice grains, often served as a delicacy.
- Thắng Cố: A traditional H’mong hotpot dish, simmering with meat, herbs, and spices—a must-try for adventurous food lovers.
- Seven-Color Sticky Rice: A vibrant dish prepared by the Nùng Dìu people, representing the essence of Northwest highland cuisine.
A Palace Steeped in Secrets
Despite restoration efforts and fresh paint that have softened its once mossy exterior, Hoà ng A Tưởng Palace retains an air of faded grandeur. Sunlight streaming through tall windows casts dramatic shadows across its corridors, evoking whispers of its opulent past. Visitors strolling through its quiet rooms can almost hear the echoes of servants in the courtyard, the elegant footsteps of concubines, or the hushed conversations of powerful rulers. The backyard’s three towering trees stand like silent sentinels, adding a hint of melancholy to this historic place.
Hoà ng A Tưởng Palace stands as a silent witness to the region’s turbulent history—a symbol of power, wealth, and the cultural crossroads that shaped Bac Ha. Whether you’re passionate about architecture, history, or simply eager to explore off-the-beaten-path gems, this “Cat King’s mansion” promises a fascinating glimpse into Vietnam’s past.
