Through the Clouds to Tram Tau Hot Springs – A Journey Over Khau Pha Pass

It was still dark when I left Hanoi. The streets were quiet, save for the occasional hum of a motorbike and the glow of streetlamps stretching into the distance. A thermos of coffee sat by my side as the bus rolled northwest.

Gradually, the concrete faded into open fields. The sun broke over the horizon somewhere near Son Tay, lighting up the rice paddies in a soft gold. By the time we reached Nghia Lo, the air was cooler — a gentle reminder that the mountains were close.

From Nghia Lo, the real adventure began: the climb up Khau Pha Pass ⛰️.

The Legendary Khau Pha

Khau Pha — meaning “Horn of the Sky” in the local Thai language — is one of Vietnam’s famed “Four Great Passes.” It stretches over 30 km, curling along the mountainsides like a silver ribbon, with cliffs on one side and valleys on the other.

From up here, the Mu Cang Chai terraced fields unfold below, their patterns shifting with the seasons — emerald in summer, gold in autumn. Stilt houses rest quietly on the slopes, smoke from cooking fires drifting into the mist.

Every few kilometers, a viewpoint opens up — a perfect excuse to stop, stretch your legs, and just… breathe.

Rolling into Tram Tau ♨️

By late afternoon, the road descended into Tram Tau. Life here moves slow, as if the mountains themselves set the rhythm.

I checked into a wooden bungalow overlooking the hot spring pools, steam rising gently into the cool air. After hours on the road, the warm mineral water felt like an embrace, easing away the stiffness while the breeze cooled my face.

As the sun dipped behind the ridges, the steam glowed gold. Somewhere in the distance, a rooster crowed, and I smiled — here, time didn’t matter.